Mastering Makeup for Different Eye Shapes

By Amelia Jackson Techniques

Eye makeup is perhaps the most personalized aspect of any beauty routine. While trends come and go, understanding how to work with your specific eye shape creates the most flattering and enhancing results. As professional makeup artists, we've developed techniques that celebrate the unique beauty of every eye shape.

Identifying Your Eye Shape

Before diving into techniques, it's important to accurately identify your eye shape. Look straight into a mirror with a relaxed expression and observe:

  • Is your crease visible when your eyes are open?
  • Do your eyes tilt upward or downward at the outer corners?
  • Can you see white all around your iris, or is it partially covered by your lids?
  • How much space exists between your lashes and brows?

Almond Eyes

Considered the most versatile eye shape, almond eyes have a visible crease and are slightly lifted at the outer corners.

Enhancing techniques:

  • Most eyeshadow placements work well; experiment freely
  • Create depth by darkening the outer V
  • Wing liner follows the natural upward tilt

Monolid Eyes

Monolids have little to no visible crease when eyes are open, creating a flat surface from lash line to brow bone.

Enhancing techniques:

  • Use gradient eyeshadow application, darkest at the lash line gradually fading upward
  • Create dimension with matte shadows rather than attempting to create a "fake" crease
  • Extend eyeshadow beyond the outer corner for elongation
  • Try "floating" liner slightly above the lash line so it's visible when eyes are open

Hooded Eyes

Hooded eyes have excess skin folding down from the brow bone that covers the crease and sometimes part of the mobile lid.

Enhancing techniques:

  • Apply transition and crease colors with eyes open to ensure placement is visible
  • Focus darker colors above the natural crease so they're visible when eyes are open
  • Use matte formulas to create depth and minimize further hooding from shimmer
  • Try "bat wing" liner technique that accounts for the hood
  • Tightline upper lashes to define eyes without sacrificing lid space

Downturned Eyes

Downturned eyes have a slight downward tilt at the outer corners.

Enhancing techniques:

  • Focus darker shadow on the outer third, blending up and out toward the end of the eyebrow
  • Wing liner should angle upward to counterbalance the downward tilt
  • Concentrate mascara on the center and outer lashes, curling them upward
  • Keep the lower lash line lighter toward the outer corner

Round Eyes

Round eyes show visible white all around the iris and appear more circular than almond-shaped.

Enhancing techniques:

  • Extend eyeshadow outward to elongate the eye shape
  • Focus darker colors on the outer and inner corners to create an almond effect
  • Winged liner helps elongate the eye
  • Apply darker shadow or liner on the outer third of the lower lash line

Deep-Set Eyes

Deep-set eyes are recessed deeper into the socket with a prominent brow bone.

Enhancing techniques:

  • Use light, reflective shades on the lid to bring forward
  • Avoid dark colors in the crease which can make eyes appear more recessed
  • Highlight under the brow bone with restraint
  • Tight line upper lashes to define without creating shadows

Remember that these guidelines are starting points, not rules. The most beautiful makeup comes from understanding your unique features and adapting techniques to enhance what makes your eyes special.

Practice is essential—take photos in different lighting to see how techniques translate, and don't be afraid to combine approaches from different eye shape recommendations if they work for you.